Configure safe

Safe Check List — This Check List will help you to iden­tify a good safe.

Take note of the fol­lo­wing points:

  • Only use safes that are pro­du­ced and cer­ti­fied to the cur­rent EN 1143–1 stan­dard
  • Ensure each safe has four to eight-point moun­ting instal­led by spe­cia­list staff
  • Ancho­ring to the wall and floor must also be pos­si­ble as well
  • Only use elec­tro­nic com­bi­na­tion locks (no keys)
  • Look out for doors that close in a vir­tually gap-free man­ner (so that lever tools can­not be applied)
  • Min. 65 mm all-sided armour-pla­ting (cut­ting discs have a maxi­mum cut­ting depth of 65 mm)
  • An Emer­gency locking device must be pre­sent
  • Locking bolts must be fed through
  • Tap the safe and listen out for any hol­low sounds
  • Take a look behind the door panel and check out the struc­ture

More details

1. Only use safes cer­ti­fied accor­ding to EN 1143–1

Do not use any other non-cer­ti­fied pro­ducts. As a purcha­ser, it is not easy for you to assess the qua­lity and level of secu­rity of the safe. Insu­rance com­pa­nies and police advice cen­tres recom­mend a resi­stance grade 3 safe as a mini­mum requi­re­ment.

2. The right loca­tion

A good safe should never be hid­den or dis­gu­i­sed, but rather it should be cle­arly visi­ble to any pene­tra­tors. The burglar will then only focus on the safe. The rest of the buil­ding will then remain undistur­bed. You should base this on the prin­ci­ple that offen­ders will expect money and jewel­lery to be kept solely within the safe. Howe­ver, this tac­tic will only work if the safe is secure and the offen­ders are not forced to go and search for a key within the buil­ding.

3. Pro­tec­tion against rem­oval: Four-point moun­ting

Regard­less of the weight invol­ved, a safe must be moun­ted by an expert in a four-point man­ner to walls or to the floor of the buil­ding using steel screws and dowels that are as thick as your fin­ger.

4. Pro­tec­tion against unlocking the safe with the loca­ted key: Com­bi­na­tion lock

Safes with com­bi­na­tion locks save a great deal of hassle. If offen­ders come across a key lock, then they will syste­ma­ti­cally search through the buil­ding, lea­ving behind a scene of abso­lute chaos.

5. Pro­tec­tion against lever tools and brea­king open the safe: secure struc­ture

Safes must be secu­red in such a way that lever tools can­not be applied (doors that close in a vir­tually gap-free man­ner). A back gauge on the hinge side of the safe doors tog­e­ther with appro­priate armour-pla­ting help com­bat attempts to break open the safe. An auto­ma­tic dead­lock in the event of a for­ci­ble attack is a mat­ter of course.

6. Pro­tec­tion against cut­ting open / oxy-ace­tyl­ene cut­ting / dril­ling / spe­cial tools: mul­ti­ple armour-pla­ting

Mul­ti­ple-armour pla­ting for the safe helps com­bat attacks using the most varied of tools.

7. For con­ve­ni­ence – the more acce­s­si­ble a safe is, the more it is used

Make sure you put the safe where you need it – and always at a con­ve­ni­ent height for the user, where pos­si­ble. It is only then that you will enjoy using the safe on a fre­quent basis. This is because the best safe is of no use if the things that are most valuable to you are not secu­red in the safe but are instead lying some­where around the house.